This text reviews recent work on understanding the processes by which ocean waves are transformed as they advance towards the shore. The topics covered include both linear and non-linear theories of wave modification by bottom topography, the interaction of waves with tidal and other currents, trapping of wave energy in the vicinity of particular topographical features, and sediment transport by which waves alter the bed profile. Attention is focused on the nearshore region, seaward of the surf zone.
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This text reviews recent work on understanding the processes by which ocean waves are transformed as they advance towards the shore. The topics covered include both linear and non-linear theories of wave modification by bottom topography, the interaction of waves with tidal and other currents, trapping of wave energy in the vicinity of particular topographical features, and sediment transport by which waves alter the bed profile. Attention is focused on the nearshore region, seaward of the surf zone.
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Add this copy of Gravity Waves in Water of Finite Depth (Advances in to cart. $262.28, good condition, Sold by Phatpocket Limited rated 4.0 out of 5 stars, ships from Waltham Abbey, ESSEX, UNITED KINGDOM, published 1997 by Computational Mechanics.
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Add this copy of Gravity Waves in Water of Finite Depth (Advances in to cart. $423.74, very good condition, Sold by SellingTales rated 5.0 out of 5 stars, ships from Belvidere, NJ, UNITED STATES, published 1997 by WIT Press / Computational Mechan.