This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1880 Excerpt: ...being placed against it; if pinched in too closely and repeatedly, the sap is too much repressed, young branches break from the eyes that otherwise would have formed fruit buds, and much mischief is dene. As a rule no pinching of the side shoots should be permitted till the shoots have made six good leaves, when they ...
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This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1880 Excerpt: ...being placed against it; if pinched in too closely and repeatedly, the sap is too much repressed, young branches break from the eyes that otherwise would have formed fruit buds, and much mischief is dene. As a rule no pinching of the side shoots should be permitted till the shoots have made six good leaves, when they may be pinched immediately above the sixth leaf. But generally speaking, people leave their trees till they have made more than six leaves, and then the best plan is to stop them generally to a length of about six inches. This will not start the buds at the base of the shoot (the ones we want to form fruit buds) into shoots. After the pinching or stopping, most probably the shoots will break again from near the apex; and about this stopping we need not be so particular. These secondary growths may be pinched at one, two, or three inches, as convenience directs. They have to perform no important part in the future existence of the tree, as the lower down on the first shoots we get the fruit buds the better, and the shoot will be pruned back to these buds in winter. These directions apply to espalier trees as well as to those on walls. It is most important to perform the pinching at intervals, and to begin at the top branches. By pinching back the shoots of the top pair of branches to-day, the pair beneath them four or five days later, and so on to the bottom of the tree, we force the sap to flow more to the lower parts of the tree--an advantage, inasmuch as it is the natural tendency of the sap to mount to the higher parts, to the weakening of the lower branches. It is also a good plan to pinch the shoots of the higher branches an inch or two shorter than the lower ones; and the strongest part of the tree should always be pinched more than the w...
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Add this copy of The Amateur Gardener, a Guide, Revised and Ed. By W. to cart. $45.36, good condition, Sold by Bonita rated 4.0 out of 5 stars, ships from Newport Coast, CA, UNITED STATES, published 2011 by Nabu Press.
