Excerpt from A Summary of the Theory of Oscillatory Waves Although the motion in a breaking -or plunging wave is too com plicated for present methods of analysis, the essential periodic char acter of the waves is retained and the motion is oscillatory, in the broad sense of the term, from deep water to the limit of uprush. It should be noted that the plunge Of the wave is the final break before the uprush on the beach. The creation of oscillatory waves is probably the result Of wind traction on the water surface. Once ...
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Excerpt from A Summary of the Theory of Oscillatory Waves Although the motion in a breaking -or plunging wave is too com plicated for present methods of analysis, the essential periodic char acter of the waves is retained and the motion is oscillatory, in the broad sense of the term, from deep water to the limit of uprush. It should be noted that the plunge Of the wave is the final break before the uprush on the beach. The creation of oscillatory waves is probably the result Of wind traction on the water surface. Once disturbed, pressure differences develop on the leeward and windward sides of the crest and permit a direct transfer of energy from the wind to the water through the medium of normal as well as tangential stresses. The details of the mechanism by which a small wave builds up into a large one should be investigated experimentally, but for the present it is sufficient to note that energy is continually transferred from the atmosphere to the surface layers of the ocean and that the waves thus formed pro vide the mechanism which transfers this energy to the Shore line. From theory and experiment it is known that ocean waves in deep water travel great distances without appreciable loss of energy by internal friction. It is evident that on the average the waves observed at any point along the shore will be more controlled by distant than local winds. About the Publisher Forgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books. Find more at ... This book is a reproduction of an important historical work. Forgotten Books uses state-of-the-art technology to digitally reconstruct the work, preserving the original format whilst repairing imperfections present in the aged copy. In rare cases, an imperfection in the original, such as a blemish or missing page, may be replicated in our edition. We do, however, repair the vast majority of imperfections successfully; any imperfections that remain are intentionally left to preserve the state of such historical works.
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